E-Kantipur

NOV 13 - Shivapuri peak is no Everest. Yet it continues to allure us, the inhabitants of the Kathmandu ‘Khaldo’ or valley. We don’t have the time, money, or the skills to climb any Himalayan peak. So, off we go and climb Shivapuri more than twice every year, mostly on long weekends, and preferably when the skies are blue.

But I wasn’t lucky the last time I went there—at least on the first day. Via the main entrance of the Shivapuri (now renamed the Shivapuri-Nagarjun) National Park at Pani Muhan, a 10-minute walk up the Budhanilkantha bus stop, we reached Shivapuri. In nearly three days, we circumambulated Shivapuri National Park (minus the western Kakani section). We thought the monsoons were over, but by the time we reached the foot of Shivapuri, we realized it was all fogged up, with drizzles and mist in the air.

“It looks like it’s going to be cold today.”

“Yes, and we will miss the views. It will be fogged up.”

Near Nagi Gumba—the ‘nun monastery’—we ran into a former colleague and his friends. Following a newly-built, stone-paved trail we trudged up, at times deeper into the woods. I have been to Shivapuri (the actual peak, that is) more than a dozen times in the past decade or so, but never on the path north of Pani Muhan. It was foggy and misty, yet we could feel the freshness in the air—a treat for our lungs—much better than in the ‘city’ of Kathmandu.

Watershed

The 160 sq. km park is home to several species of mammals including common and clouded leopards, wild boars, hares and nearly 300 species of birds, but all we could feel that morning was the presence of wild bugs, popularly called Jhyaun-kiri, thanks to their noisy rants that never stop. Of course, we have seen birds; and I think I saw a wild boar here once—that’s about it. Yet, walking alone in the dense forests is a scary experience.

Towards the top, past Bagdwar, the origin of the Bagmati River, the trees look ancient. Shivapuri also boasts over 2,000 species of plants and nearly 300 species of birds. Formerly called Shivapuri Watershed Wildlife Reserve, the hill ridge has innumerable waterfalls and streams cascading down its slopes in all directions. Some of them merge to form great rivers as the Bagmati, the Bishnumati, the Dhobikhola, and the Manohara. Together, they support the civilization that has flourished in the Valley and beyond.

At Bagdwar, we tasted the first drops of the Bagmati off a stone spout carved like a tiger’s head. Todke Baba, a sage who lives nearby, told us this was where the famous Indian sage Shivapuri Baba (Jayantha Nambudiripad, 1826-1963) lived and meditated. A quick research later showed Shivapuri Baba was amongst the greatest sages of his time. He met many Western heads of state including Theodore Roosevelt and Queen Victoria before returning to India. Later, he moved to Nepal and lived here in Shivapuri before passing away at the ripe age of 137.

What a history; what a place. From Shivapuri and Bagdwar, we saw fairy tales all around us: indescribable natural beauty in perfect harmony and, most important, serenity. Since we had to reach Chisapani, past Okhreni and past many isolated and dense forests, we left. After a 30-minute walk, we realized we were lost. Thank god for the two sages who lived nearby and showed us the right way. After about 10 hours of walking, we reached Chisapani—meaning chilly water—at the border of Sindhupalchok and Nuwakot districts on the route to Helambu. Devouring dal bhat and red mushrooms for dinner at a local lodge, we prayed for a clearer day and blue skies the next day.

Off to Jhule

“Look, that’s Langtang and Dorje Lakpa!”

“And that’s Gauri Shankar to the east.”

“And that’s Ganesh and Manaslu himals in the west.”

“So clear…simply breathtaking views!”

The second day couldn’t have been better. Enjoying clear views of the Himalayas and the green Sindhu valley, we left the scenic village of Chisapani and headed east. Traversing ancient forests, leech-prone trails, wetlands and innumerable waterfalls cascading down the Shivapuri massif, we reached the sun-kissed village of Jhule at the east end of the park. The ridge and rolling meadows overlooking Indrawati valley and Sindhupalchok villages double as a vantage point to capture the Himalayan panorama through the eyes or on camera. Views of Bhotechaur, Nagarkot, Kartike and Lapsiphedi valleys come as a bonus.

After nearly four hours of trekking along a curving path on the north-side of Shivapuri-Manichaur, past the Dhap wetland, we badly needed some good food and rest. It was at Jhule that we had suffered a lot in the past; back then, it didn’t have any place to stop for lunch—no restaurant, no resort whatsoever. But we were lucky this time. At the foot of the Tamang village outside the national park along a trail leading to Kartike, we spotted a little traditionally-designed house—the Jhule Mountain Resort cum farmhouse. This new place didn’t just offer spectacular views of probably the last remaining pristine pockets of Kathmandu, but also organic food and cozy accommodation. Nowhere around Shivapuri had we seen such good facilities—ecologically sensitive and organic, too.

A good move indeed, on part of the entrepreneurs, ahead of Nepal Tourism Year 2011. Throughout the evening and next morning, we walked around the green meadows and terraced farms growing kiwi and several other exotic fruits, nuts, cereals and vegetables. We didn’t want to leave, but our time was up. So we said goodbye to Manoj Acharya, the friendly fellow who toils day in and out at the peaceful-yet-remote Jhule village, and hit the trail running through the nearby forest.

“Be careful, I spotted a leopard in that forest recently,” Acharya shouted from a distance, smiling.

“Sure. Thank you!” I shouted back. “See you someday.”

Our next destinations were Kartike, Nagarkot, Sankhu and then Kathmandu Khaldo again. Walking the trail leading to Kartike, I recounted Robert Frost’s famous lines: “The woods are lovely dark and deep; But I have promises to keep; And miles to go before I sleep; And miles to go before I sleep.”

An avid traveller, the writer is a BBC Nepali correspondent. He can be reached at nepal.surendra@gmail.com

To reach Shivapuri National Park, you can drive up to Budhanilkantha and walk for 10 minutes before you reach Pani Muhan, the gateway to the park. Regular buses from the city are also available from Shahid Gate.

Posted on: 2010-11-13 09:52

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